It’s been five years since I last visited the Southeast Asian country of Singapore. There have been two major changes since then: legalized gambling in the form of “Integrated Resorts” and my being of legal drinking age. Coincidentally, much of my four-day visit involved Marina Bay Sands and alcohol, which ironically made the trip more impressionable.
The first stop was Changi Airport. Clean, modern, efficient – it’s easy to see why it’s often rated one of the best airports in the world. However, the carpeting is a huge turnoff. I might even go as far as to say that for that reason alone, it loses to Hong Kong’s Chek Lap Kok Airport, which I love for its sleek, sterile, shopping mall-esque feel. But I digress. I’m just glad I was able to leave the airport within 15 minutes of landing, a rare feat in today’s world of strict air travel regulations.
To get my fill of as many Singaporean dishes as I could during my short stay, I headed over to StraitsKitchen at the Hyatt with a local friend in tow. The buffet offered everything Singaporean under the sun – Chinese, Malay, Indian, Nyonya; you name it, it’s here. I started off with chicken and beef satay, followed by char siu and roasted duck, a large helping of chili crab and pan-fried shrimp, a warm, crispy piece of naan with an assortment of curries, and finished it all off with some mee goreng. And I didn’t get through even half of the food options. Then came dessert. First we indulged in tropical fruits: longan, pineapple, jackfruit, mangosteen, starfruit, mango, and wax apple. Then we savored ais kacang, or shaved ice – three different types at that, each with a different combination of toppings, including palm seed, red beans, sweet corn, grass jelly, coconut milk, sago. The ice was finely shaved, so fine that it melted in no time – so eat quickly or else you’ll end up with cold soup! To top that all off, we had guilingao, or turtle jelly, served with honey. My friend also had some gulab jamun, an Indian dessert consisting of deep fried dough dipped in syrup, which I was too stuffed to try.
Walking out of the Hyatt with my hands precariously holding onto my gut, we boarded a taxi for Clarke Quay. Last time I was in Singapore, I had dinner at Clarke Quay, but was too young to go barhopping. This time, I couldn’t go barhopping either at the risk of projectile on my first night in Singapore. Clarke Quay at night is a lively place, jam packed with yuppies heading to bars and restaurants. We headed for a more mellow scene over at Brewerkz, a joint bearing an uncanny resemblance to BJ’s Brewery. Unwinding with a sampler of eight beers, ranging from light to dark, we relaxed al fresco, enjoying the respite of gentle breeze from the otherwise muggy Singaporean climate.
The next day, another friend of mine took me out. The first order of business: lunch. We stopped by Killiney Kopitiam for some simple local fare, this time char kway teow with fishcake and a grass jelly drink. We then walked along the Esplanade Promenade, which had changed significantly since my previous visit. In addition to the “Durian” and Merlion, which had been there all along, there was now Marina Bay Sands (MBS) with its three towers and SkyPark across the way. Connecting the Esplanade with MBS was the DNA-inspired Helix Bridge. In my opinion, MBS is unique enough to be crowned a Singaporean landmark, a rather necessary distinction given the otherwise forgettable Central Business District (CBD) skyline.
Afterwards, I wandered to Little India, home to a sizable portion of Singapore’s Indian minority. Tekka Centre transported me back to the wet markets of Taiwan with a multiethnic twist. Halal butchers and Chinese pork vendors stood side by side. The lanes in the market were certainly a lot wider and cleaner than what I am accustomed to seeing in Taipei, but the wet floors reeking of fish, poultry, and vegetables remained the same. Outside of the market, I was delighted by the colorful architecture of Little India, which vaguely reminded me of Blues Clues. The contrast between Little India and the pervasive Anglo-Chinese environment physically represented the unique blend of cultural influences that exists in Singapore.
In the evening, I headed off into the wilderness to Singapore’s Night Safari with friends. Even as a return visitor, I enjoyed exploring the habitats of nocturnal animals by tram. I had some pretty close encounters with rhinoceroses, giraffes, lions, hyenas, flamingos, elephants, bears – some of which I didn’t even know were nocturnal. The “Creatures of the Night” show was amusing with its infantile humor, which made it worthwhile. I did get a good laugh at the tram guide introducing the “Himalayan” region of the park, since the climate is nothing like what I’d expect in the Himalayas.
At midnight, while heading back into town, we stopped by Rochor Beancurd for a quick snack to satiate our sweet tooth. The room temperature beancurd was silky smooth, yet still firm. I mixed the perfect dose of ginger syrup around and it was easily the best beancurd I’ve ever had. Add some you tiao to that combo as a perfect accompaniment. Eating at Rochor at midnight reminded me once again why Asia is the place to be for around-the-clock action.
The next day, I headed to Qi Ji at Marina Square for some laksa, my favorite Chinese-Malay dish consisting of a coconut-based curry soup with noodles, prawns, and tofu puffs, served with a dollop of sambal chilli paste. I discovered this delicacy just a few months ago at Shiok Restaurant in Menlo Park. I had intended to trek all the way out to Katong, home to the most legendary laksa, which is also called none other than Katong laksa. Nevertheless, my hunger could not last the arduous trek via MRT and bus, so I settled for Qi Ji. Not bad, I must say, but it left me hankering to try authentic Katong laksa. I’ll have to save that for my next trip, I suppose.
Later that day, I finally dragged my over-relaxed (read: lazy) self over to Orchard Road to see what the Great Singapore Sale was all about. I wandered around ION Orchard, the latest and greatest shopping complex on Orchard, decked out with the requisite Zara, Uniqlo, Muji and Top Man stores, among countless others. If I had a few more $100 bills in my pocket, I probably would’ve been a little more enthusiastic about strolling along Orchard, but alas that was not the case.
Following a relaxing afternoon, it was time to get crunk. Or maybe just crazy. Well, let’s not open a can of worms… I met up with a few friends, friends of friends, and friends of friends of friends – you know how it is. After an intense pre-lash (their term for pre-game) session with (at least) one bottle too many, we headed over to Butter Factory at One Fullerton. Cover was $28, which is pretty pricey even by American standards. The dance floor on the second floor was packed with an energetic, young crowd. The DJ played the most popular hits, which always makes the night more fun (Please, no mashups, obscure techno, or dubstep!). Unlike partying in Taiwan, though, there were no dancers up on stage. There were a lot more wallflowers, and in general, people seemed more reluctant to dance. I didn’t get to (or remember to, rather) try their drinks, but drinks are drinks. Needless to say, I had fun that night.
After an arduous struggle, I got out of bed the following day in time for a late lunch. I headed up to Sky on 57, a French-Asian fusion restaurant by Justin Quek, at the MBS SkyPark. The food, which I considered to be more Asian with Western influences, was nothing to write home about. Maybe except the bak kuk teh, or Chinese pork rib soup, which was served with Johnnie Walker Black Label. I didn’t notice a huge difference, but that was certainly a first for me. The view from the restaurant, however, was fantastic. Even on a cloudy day, I had unobstructed views in every direction, giving me the opportunity to appreciate Singapore’s dense yet neat arrangement of high-rises. Following lunch, I took a quick detour to the casino downstairs, which I was not old enough to enter. Again, shelved for next time.
My final destination for the trip was Haji Lane, which I could only describe as an eclectic mix between Taipei’s Chajie (Tea Street), Hong Kong’s Lan Kwai Fong, Paris’ Marais, and San Francisco’s Haight Ashbury. Yet it was more unique than that. There’s something fascinating about this area comprised of quaint boutiques, al fresco hookah bars, and cafes occupying bright colored three-story colonial townhouses, completely surrounded by tall, newer developments on all sides. I was disappointed that I had discovered this district so late into my trip, but I have hope that one day I will return to fully explore the area, as well as uncover many other locales waiting to be discovered.
One final note about Changi Airport. The Skyview Lounge was rather dismal and an anomaly among Cathay Pacific airport lounges. Not only were the food and drink selections extremely limited and poorly stocked, but the interior design was spartan and overly minimalist. I’m sure even some of Changi’s free lounges were more tastefully decorated. The temperature in the lounge was also frigidly cold, matching the atmosphere. I guess it was a rather apt transition back to non-vacation reality for me. So long, Singapore – we’ll meet again.
Addresses
Food
StraitsKitchen
10 Scotts Road
Grand Hyatt Singapore
Singapore 228211
Killiney Kopitiam
30 Purvis Street
Singapore 188607
(multiple outlets in the city)
Qi Ji
6 Raffles Boulevard
The Maternity House
Singapore 039594
(multiple outlets in the city)
Rochor Beancurd
2 Short Street
Singapore 188211
Sky on 57
10 Bayfront Avenue
Singapore 018956
Nightlife
Butter Factory
1 Fullerton Road
Singapore 049213
Brewerkz
30 Merchant Road
Riverside Point
Singapore 058282
The first stop was Changi Airport. Clean, modern, efficient – it’s easy to see why it’s often rated one of the best airports in the world. However, the carpeting is a huge turnoff. I might even go as far as to say that for that reason alone, it loses to Hong Kong’s Chek Lap Kok Airport, which I love for its sleek, sterile, shopping mall-esque feel. But I digress. I’m just glad I was able to leave the airport within 15 minutes of landing, a rare feat in today’s world of strict air travel regulations.
To get my fill of as many Singaporean dishes as I could during my short stay, I headed over to StraitsKitchen at the Hyatt with a local friend in tow. The buffet offered everything Singaporean under the sun – Chinese, Malay, Indian, Nyonya; you name it, it’s here. I started off with chicken and beef satay, followed by char siu and roasted duck, a large helping of chili crab and pan-fried shrimp, a warm, crispy piece of naan with an assortment of curries, and finished it all off with some mee goreng. And I didn’t get through even half of the food options. Then came dessert. First we indulged in tropical fruits: longan, pineapple, jackfruit, mangosteen, starfruit, mango, and wax apple. Then we savored ais kacang, or shaved ice – three different types at that, each with a different combination of toppings, including palm seed, red beans, sweet corn, grass jelly, coconut milk, sago. The ice was finely shaved, so fine that it melted in no time – so eat quickly or else you’ll end up with cold soup! To top that all off, we had guilingao, or turtle jelly, served with honey. My friend also had some gulab jamun, an Indian dessert consisting of deep fried dough dipped in syrup, which I was too stuffed to try.
Walking out of the Hyatt with my hands precariously holding onto my gut, we boarded a taxi for Clarke Quay. Last time I was in Singapore, I had dinner at Clarke Quay, but was too young to go barhopping. This time, I couldn’t go barhopping either at the risk of projectile on my first night in Singapore. Clarke Quay at night is a lively place, jam packed with yuppies heading to bars and restaurants. We headed for a more mellow scene over at Brewerkz, a joint bearing an uncanny resemblance to BJ’s Brewery. Unwinding with a sampler of eight beers, ranging from light to dark, we relaxed al fresco, enjoying the respite of gentle breeze from the otherwise muggy Singaporean climate.
The next day, another friend of mine took me out. The first order of business: lunch. We stopped by Killiney Kopitiam for some simple local fare, this time char kway teow with fishcake and a grass jelly drink. We then walked along the Esplanade Promenade, which had changed significantly since my previous visit. In addition to the “Durian” and Merlion, which had been there all along, there was now Marina Bay Sands (MBS) with its three towers and SkyPark across the way. Connecting the Esplanade with MBS was the DNA-inspired Helix Bridge. In my opinion, MBS is unique enough to be crowned a Singaporean landmark, a rather necessary distinction given the otherwise forgettable Central Business District (CBD) skyline.
Afterwards, I wandered to Little India, home to a sizable portion of Singapore’s Indian minority. Tekka Centre transported me back to the wet markets of Taiwan with a multiethnic twist. Halal butchers and Chinese pork vendors stood side by side. The lanes in the market were certainly a lot wider and cleaner than what I am accustomed to seeing in Taipei, but the wet floors reeking of fish, poultry, and vegetables remained the same. Outside of the market, I was delighted by the colorful architecture of Little India, which vaguely reminded me of Blues Clues. The contrast between Little India and the pervasive Anglo-Chinese environment physically represented the unique blend of cultural influences that exists in Singapore.
In the evening, I headed off into the wilderness to Singapore’s Night Safari with friends. Even as a return visitor, I enjoyed exploring the habitats of nocturnal animals by tram. I had some pretty close encounters with rhinoceroses, giraffes, lions, hyenas, flamingos, elephants, bears – some of which I didn’t even know were nocturnal. The “Creatures of the Night” show was amusing with its infantile humor, which made it worthwhile. I did get a good laugh at the tram guide introducing the “Himalayan” region of the park, since the climate is nothing like what I’d expect in the Himalayas.
At midnight, while heading back into town, we stopped by Rochor Beancurd for a quick snack to satiate our sweet tooth. The room temperature beancurd was silky smooth, yet still firm. I mixed the perfect dose of ginger syrup around and it was easily the best beancurd I’ve ever had. Add some you tiao to that combo as a perfect accompaniment. Eating at Rochor at midnight reminded me once again why Asia is the place to be for around-the-clock action.
The next day, I headed to Qi Ji at Marina Square for some laksa, my favorite Chinese-Malay dish consisting of a coconut-based curry soup with noodles, prawns, and tofu puffs, served with a dollop of sambal chilli paste. I discovered this delicacy just a few months ago at Shiok Restaurant in Menlo Park. I had intended to trek all the way out to Katong, home to the most legendary laksa, which is also called none other than Katong laksa. Nevertheless, my hunger could not last the arduous trek via MRT and bus, so I settled for Qi Ji. Not bad, I must say, but it left me hankering to try authentic Katong laksa. I’ll have to save that for my next trip, I suppose.
Later that day, I finally dragged my over-relaxed (read: lazy) self over to Orchard Road to see what the Great Singapore Sale was all about. I wandered around ION Orchard, the latest and greatest shopping complex on Orchard, decked out with the requisite Zara, Uniqlo, Muji and Top Man stores, among countless others. If I had a few more $100 bills in my pocket, I probably would’ve been a little more enthusiastic about strolling along Orchard, but alas that was not the case.
Following a relaxing afternoon, it was time to get crunk. Or maybe just crazy. Well, let’s not open a can of worms… I met up with a few friends, friends of friends, and friends of friends of friends – you know how it is. After an intense pre-lash (their term for pre-game) session with (at least) one bottle too many, we headed over to Butter Factory at One Fullerton. Cover was $28, which is pretty pricey even by American standards. The dance floor on the second floor was packed with an energetic, young crowd. The DJ played the most popular hits, which always makes the night more fun (Please, no mashups, obscure techno, or dubstep!). Unlike partying in Taiwan, though, there were no dancers up on stage. There were a lot more wallflowers, and in general, people seemed more reluctant to dance. I didn’t get to (or remember to, rather) try their drinks, but drinks are drinks. Needless to say, I had fun that night.
After an arduous struggle, I got out of bed the following day in time for a late lunch. I headed up to Sky on 57, a French-Asian fusion restaurant by Justin Quek, at the MBS SkyPark. The food, which I considered to be more Asian with Western influences, was nothing to write home about. Maybe except the bak kuk teh, or Chinese pork rib soup, which was served with Johnnie Walker Black Label. I didn’t notice a huge difference, but that was certainly a first for me. The view from the restaurant, however, was fantastic. Even on a cloudy day, I had unobstructed views in every direction, giving me the opportunity to appreciate Singapore’s dense yet neat arrangement of high-rises. Following lunch, I took a quick detour to the casino downstairs, which I was not old enough to enter. Again, shelved for next time.
My final destination for the trip was Haji Lane, which I could only describe as an eclectic mix between Taipei’s Chajie (Tea Street), Hong Kong’s Lan Kwai Fong, Paris’ Marais, and San Francisco’s Haight Ashbury. Yet it was more unique than that. There’s something fascinating about this area comprised of quaint boutiques, al fresco hookah bars, and cafes occupying bright colored three-story colonial townhouses, completely surrounded by tall, newer developments on all sides. I was disappointed that I had discovered this district so late into my trip, but I have hope that one day I will return to fully explore the area, as well as uncover many other locales waiting to be discovered.
One final note about Changi Airport. The Skyview Lounge was rather dismal and an anomaly among Cathay Pacific airport lounges. Not only were the food and drink selections extremely limited and poorly stocked, but the interior design was spartan and overly minimalist. I’m sure even some of Changi’s free lounges were more tastefully decorated. The temperature in the lounge was also frigidly cold, matching the atmosphere. I guess it was a rather apt transition back to non-vacation reality for me. So long, Singapore – we’ll meet again.
Addresses
Food
StraitsKitchen
10 Scotts Road
Grand Hyatt Singapore
Singapore 228211
Killiney Kopitiam
30 Purvis Street
Singapore 188607
(multiple outlets in the city)
Qi Ji
6 Raffles Boulevard
The Maternity House
Singapore 039594
(multiple outlets in the city)
Rochor Beancurd
2 Short Street
Singapore 188211
Sky on 57
10 Bayfront Avenue
Singapore 018956
Nightlife
Butter Factory
1 Fullerton Road
Singapore 049213
Brewerkz
30 Merchant Road
Riverside Point
Singapore 058282
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